The Wandering Scot

An occasional travel journal.

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Yemen: Hadhramaut Tour

I’m in Seiyun, Yemen, winding up a short Yemeni tour.  It’s been an enjoyable visit, with lots of rugged semi-desert scenery, traditional villages, historic towns, and a distinctive culture.

To avoid doubt: I’ve been visiting the sane, calm, government-controlled Hadhramaut region of Yemen.  Well away from the not-at-all-sane rebel-controlled North-West.  In Hadhramaut there are a lot of security checkpoints on the roads, but no recent trouble.

I had arranged a private tour through Young Pioneer Tours.  YPT were very helpful and their local operator was very well-organized and on the ball. It was a great tour!

The scenic Wadi Do’an, full of traditional villages. Note the village perched on the rock.

A view of Shibam “The Manhattan of Arabia”, a Unesco site, with its mudbrick towers.

An oddly precarious fortress tower.
A visiting Scotsman in the traditional Yemeni kilt equivalent.

Cairo: Grand Egyptian Museum

Yes, it’s true, after years of delays the Grand Egyptian Museum at Giza is finally open!

They do indeed have many Wonderful Things.  They have almost all the items from Tutankhamun’s Tomb.  All well displayed, in a spacious gallery.  And they have lots and lots of other Good Stuff spread across 12 galleries.

They also have lots of eager visitors, both locals and tourists.  I was the third person into the galleries yesterday and went straight to the Tutankhamun Gallery, and I still found myself in a scrum of photographers at Tutankhamun’s Mask.  It was actually much quieter 10 minutes later, when the over-eager early bird fervor had died down!

P.S. Yes Tutankhamun’s inner coffin really is 240 lbs of solid gold.  Wow.

I’m in Juba, South Sudan.  There aren’t really many tourist sights in South Sudan, but it’s been interesting to see the local culture.  Even although the country is desperately poor, it has managed to reach #1 in at least one area, Transparency International’s Corruption Index!

The most serious alleged corruption is high-level, supposedly around oil and also some entirely undeclared and officially non-existent gold mining. But at a lower level I did get several opportunities to witness Traditional Local Customs. At a street stop, several charming police ladies politely asked us “for some water” and after some joking back and forth, my guide reluctantly coughed up a few dollars to placate their thirst. At a major checkpoint, a policeman demanded to see my passport and then wouldn’t return it until my guide gave him a few dollars. All this happened completely out in the open for all to see.

No photos of course. My guide warned me that the police like to seize smart-alec smart-phones and then demand quite large sums for their return.

I’ve encountered small scale corruption before, but it is generally much more discreet. My guide was surprisingly philosophical about it. Neither the police nor other government officials have been paid for a year, “so of course they have to fend for themselves”. Oh dear.

One photo from South Sudan: a wrecked passenger ferry on the Nile. It’s been stuck there for at least a decade, as there no funds and no motivation to remove it.

Eritrea: Art Deco Gas Station

I’m visiting Eritrea, a small African country which rivals North Korea for isolation and eccentricity.

The capital Asmara boasts some good Futurist buildings from the Italian colonial era, earning it UNESCO World Heritage status.  The most famous is the Fiat Tagliero Building,  a quirky Art Deco petrol station in the shape of a airplane, with aggresively cantilevered wings.

Madagascar: Pugnacious Tenrec

I’m in Andasibe, Madagascar.  I’ve seen various lemurs, chameleons, geckos, etc, but my favorite animal so far was a tiny baby tenrec.

It had bright yellow spines on its head and a blackish body.  We had inadvertently cornered it against a stone wall, with no easy escape.  So, despite being only about 3 inches long, it decided to try to intimidate us. It lunged and feinted menacingly with its spiky head and made it clear that any stupid monkeys that tried to mess with it would get a handful of spines.

Suitably chastened we backed off. It then resumed its stroll. With perhaps a hint of a swagger.

Googling later, it turns out to have been a Lowland Streaked Tenrec. They are noted for being pugnacious and if we hadn’t backed off it would have probably escalated to a charge-attack and head-butted us. Not surprisingly, local predators avoid them.

Mauritius: Dodo Quest

I’m on Mauritius, where I successfully hunted down a dodo!

It was a very fine dodo.  It waggled its little wings and cawed gently at me.

Yes, it’s true, the Mauritius Natural History Museum has a very charming animatronic dodo.  🙂

Perhaps more to the point, they also have the only “complete” dodo skeleton, which has pride of place in their Dodo Gallery.