I was startled when I ran across my first Lenin "in the wild" in
Kazakhstan, complete with fresh red flowers. I had vaguely assumed that
Lenin had been swept into the dustbin of history, and his statues with
him. But no, he still typically retains a prominent place in most of the
major cities of Russia, and in scattered other parts of the former
USSR. I've now seen him in about eighty cities, from Brest to Vladivostok.
The presence of Lenin is often a clue to how a country feels about
the Soviet heritage and about today's Russia. He has vanished from
public spaces in the Baltic republics, relegated to museum cellars. He
remains prominent in Russia, Belarus and Transdniester. In some
countries he is mostly absent, but occasionally surfaces in districts
with a strong ethnic Russian presence, such as the Crimea, or Karaganda in Kazakhstan
or Khojand in Tajikistan. And finally, for no good reason, he shows up
in Seattle.