The Wandering Scot

An occasional travel journal.

Kosovo: Bill Klinton

I’m in Prishtina, Kosovo, on “Bill Klinton Boulevard” admiring the Bill Clinton Statue. A few feet away is the “Hillary” dress store, which proudly displays photographs of a visit by Hillary herself in 2010.

Why are the Kosovars so fond of the Clintons?  The answer is on the document in Bill’s hand, dated 24 March 1999, which is when NATO, led by the USA, launched air-strikes to protect the Kosovars from a wave of ethnic cleansing launched by the Serbs.  A nation-saving intervention for which the Kosovars remain grateful.

Temple of Poseidon

I’m at Cape Sounion, near Athens, visiting the Temple of Poseidon. In ancient times its splendid white marble columns were visible from far at sea and it was a very welcome landmark for sailors returning to Athens. The surviving columns and base are still an impressive sight.


Poseidon has been kind to California recently, blessing us with some delightful rain this last winter. I wanted to show my appreciation to the god, so I had brought a small offering to the temple, a box of baklava.

I ceremoniously thanked the god for his kindness and then offered up the baklava. Following tradition, after the god had had a moment to consume the essence of the offering, I then disposed of the physical remains. It was delicious.

The site guard seemed mildly puzzled by all this, but wisely decided to let it be.

Vietnam: Cu Chi Tunnels

I’m at the Cu Chi Tunnels museum outside Saigon. This area was a Viet Cong stronghold during the “American War” with a network of over 200km of low-tech tunnels.

Most tunnels entrances are tiny and well hidden. And the tunnels themselves extremely narrow.  But my guide showed me one tunnel entrance that was poorly hidden and relatively large.  Why large?  Because it was a trap.  Unfortunate GIs faced with a choice of tiny tunnels or this lucky large one would often opt for the easier choice.   Which generally did not end well.

The situation was pretty ghastly for both sides.  The Viet Cong (and local villagers) faced saturation bombing and gas attacks.  The incoming GIs faced elusive disappearing defenders and a wide variety of low-tech but very effective traps.

After dutifully and painfully crouch-walking down a 120 yard section of very cramped tunnel, I celebrated my escape by paying for ten rounds with an AK47. I’m not really into guns, but I couldn’t resist the chance to fire such an iconic weapon at such a historic site.

Addis Ababa: Red Remnants

From 1974 to 1987, Ethiopia was ruled by a ruthless Marxist-Leninist regime known as the “Derg”. They renamed themselves in 1987, but were only finally overthrown in 1991. There are still odd traces of them in Addis Ababa.

The statue of Lenin is long gone, toppled in 1991. But a striking Soviet-style obelisk, known informally as the Derg Monument, still survives. It towers 50 meters tall, decorated with a hammer and sickle, and topped by a giant Red Star. It’s quite impressive. At the moment it is augmented by some placards mourning the death of Fidel Castro.

A few hundred meters away is the other side of the story, the Red Terror Martyrs Memorial Museum, which commemorates the several hundred thousand victims of the “Red Terror”, a lethal rampage primarily aimed at rival Marxist-Leninist groups. It’s a good small museum, outlining the rise of the Derg and then the horrors of the Red Terror itself.


Sudan: Pyramids!

Nuri Pyramids

Greetings from the Pyramids! No, no, not the Egyptian pyramids, the Nubian pyramids!

I’m in Karima, in Northern Sudan. I’ve been visiting various Nubian archaeological sites, including three sets of pyramids. They are much younger (7th – 3rd c bc), much steeper and much smaller (40 to 60ft tall) than their Giza brothers, but they are still pretty cool. They were build as memorials atop the tombs of Nubian Kings.

Jebel Barkal Royal Necropolis

I’ve been overlanding it from Egypt, along the Nile and across the desert. I am traveling solo, except of course for my guide, my driver, my cook and our loyal Toyota Land Cruiser. Ahem.

This part of Sudan was heavily influenced by Ancient Egypt, with many temples built by Egyptian occupiers. But my Nubian guide puts much greater emphasis on the glorious 25th Dynasty, when the Nubian Kings conquered all of Egypt and ruled as Pharaohs. Ha!

Tomorrow I’m off to Meroe and yet more pyramids…

Hawaii: Kilauea Lava Lake

For the last few weeks the level of the lava lake at Hawaii’s Kilauea volcano has been unusually high, meaning it’s visible from the Jaggar Museum viewpoint, 1.1 miles away.  This is as close as the Park Service will let you get. So I seized the moment and visited. Unlike Nyiragongo, Kilauea was merciful and did not eat my camera.

During the day, the lake surface was mostly a dull gray, with only faint hints of red cracks at the edges. But there were also two lava fountains, frothing up lava and flinging it up to 30 ft in the air. Through a good lens, this was extremely striking and very cool. dsc09202b
By night the lava lake is much more striking, with the cracks in the lake now bright red and the glow from the fountains reflecting off the smoke and crater edge. dsc08900
I also hiked out to near where the flow from the Pu’u O’o vent is entering the ocean. Lots of steam, but also some bright red lava. A tour boat captain came in, cutting in very close to the lava.  Clearly a fine lunatic, so I took that boat ride next day! dsc07886